Free Amigurumi Octopus Pattern

This is my amigurumi octopus whom Aaron, once again cleverly named LiverSpot Lloyd. I’ve chosen to keep track of my pattern to share with you all. So please enjoy my free amigurumi octopus pattern.

Good luck!!

Note:

Both my Peachy-Pink and Maroon yarns are Caron simply soft, which I find has a smaller outcome than yarns like “RedHeart” and “I love this Yarn” from Hobby Lobby, so if you are using those yarns, you can expect something slightly larger than my Octopus which is roughly 17 inches (tentacle to tentacle) and 7 inches tall.

Yarns:

• Peachy-pink
• Maroon
• Orange

Things you will need to know:

• What a magic ring is
• how to decrease

Tools:

• Size G hook
• Wide eyed needle
• Scissors
• Stitch marker
• Glue gun (optional)

Abbreviations used in pattern:

• SC- Single Crochet
• DEC- Decrease
• ST/STS- Stitch/Stitches
• CH/CHS- Chain/Chain
• SK- Skip
• F/O- Fasten Off

Head:

(make one)

Round 1: 6 sc into Magic Ring (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, around (18)

Round 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, around (24)

Round 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc innext st, around (30)

Round 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, around (36)

Round 7: sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, around (42)

Round 8: sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, around (48)

Round 9: sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st, around (54)

Round 10: sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, around (60)

Round 11: sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st, around (66)

Rounds 12-23: sc around (66)

Round 24: sc in next 9 sts, dec over next 2 sts, around (60)

Round 25: sc around (60)

Round 26: sc in next 8 sts, dec over next 2 sts, around (54)

Rounds 27-28: sc around (54)

Round 29: sc in next 7 sts, dec over next 2 sts, around (48)

Rounds 30-34: sc around (48)

F/O and weave in ends

(Stuff Firmly. There is a reason you end with 48 stitches around. It is because 48 is divisible by 8, so you will be able to stitch on all 8 legs in an even amount of space)

Arms:

(Make eight. My suggestion when making the legs is to stuff it as you go along because it gets quite long and could be more difficult to stuff when it is finished.)

Round 1: sc in 6 into magic ring (6)

Rounds 2-4: sc around (6)

Round 5: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Rounds 6-23: sc around (12)

Round 24: sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, around (18)

Rounds 25-34: sc around (18)

Round 35: sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, around (24)

Rounds 36-37: sc around (24)

F/O leaving long tail to attach to head, other arms and bottom

(Similar to the head, there is a reason you end in 24 stitches. It is because it is divisible by four. The leg is easy to attach but hard to explain. I will attempt to explain in the assembly later on)

Bottom:

(make one)

Round 1: 6 sc into Magic Ring (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, around (18)

Round 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, around (24)

Round 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc innext st, around (30)

Round 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, around (36)

Round 7: sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, around (42)

Round 8: sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, around (48)

F/O leaving long tail to stitch to Arms.

Eye Sockets:

Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, around (18)

Rounds 4-5: sc around (18)

Round 6: sc in next 6 sts, ch 6, sk next 6 sts, sc in next 6 sts (12 sc, 6 chs)

Round 7: sc in next 6 sts, sc in next 6 chs, sc in next 6 sts (18)

Round 8: sc in next st, dec over next 2 sts, around (12)

Pardon my ugly nail polish.

At this point you will notice that there is a gap in the eye where you made the 6 chains. This is where you place the eye whites. You can stitch them in or use a glue gun. Either way is fine, as long as you stitch them in from inside of the Eye Socket.

When I was about to make the eye whites, I realized I had run out of white felt, so I used one of Aaron’s white shirts. I made a Thin rectangle out of black felt as the pupil.The white doesn’t have to be a perfect circle, just the right size to cover the whole gap left in the Eye socket. This is how mine looked:

There is still more to the Eye Socket Pattern:

Round 9: Dec 6 times (6)

Round 10: dec 3 times (3)

F/O leave tail to stitch to head.

Suction cups:

(Make 32. These are extremely optional. 32 is a lot of suction cups, so it is fine if you choose to leave them out, but they do add quite a bit of authenticity, and look coooool)

Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6)

Round 2: sc around (6)

F/O Weave in ends

(Yes that’s all it is. Remember to curl up the edges so that they form little cups.)

Big Liver Spot:

Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, around (18)

F/O leave tail, to stitch to head

Medium Liver Spot:

Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

F/O leave tail, to stitch to head

Little Liver Spot:

Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring

F/O leave tail, to stitch to head

Assembly:

Assembly of the arms to everything else is tough to explain. You will sew 6 stitches of the arm to 6 stitches of the head. Do this with each arm. After you’ve done this, you will need to sew 6 stitches of each arm to 6 stitches of the arm next to it. Once you have done this, your Octopus should look like this when flipped upside down:

In this picture, I have one last arm to attach. I will sew it to the 6 remaining stitches on the head and sew 6 stitches on each side of it to the arms on either side. Then it should look like this:

At this point, you should have 6 stitches on each arm left to use. This is where the Bottom comes in. You will sew the 6 remaining stitches of each arm to 6 stitches on your Bottom piece. This is how mine looked Halfway done:

After I stitched on two more arms, I stuffed the octopus a little more, but not too much, or else it would make a little bubble on the bottom. Stuff it firmly enough not to cave in, but not too much.

After that was done, My octopus looked like this from the bottom:

And like this from the top:

That is basically all the assembly you will need instructions for. You can place the liver spots wherever you like, same with the eyes. I have some advice for the suction cups: just use a glue gun. If you are a real trooper, go ahead and stitch them on, but I found it very tedious to do so, and if I choose to make another Octopus, I will glue them on next time. Here are some final pictures:

I hope you enjoyed this Amigurumi Octopus pattern and please share your finished products with me if you ever use it by emailing me at robotrish@yahoo.com, and please don’t hesitate to comment or make any corrections. No pattern is perfect.

Special Thanks to LiverSpot Lloyd for taking over my laptop and helping me edit my post:

Thanks,

RoboTrish